Tungnath Trek - Part 2

On our last leg Tungnath Temple was visible from more than a kilometer away. This last leg is straight. It took us about three hours in total to reach the complex. Holy chants and bells were ringing around the temple. Tungnath is the highest Shiva temple in the world and it attracts its due lot of worshippers.

Last leg of Tungnath trek, temple is visible now

Rishikesh

Rishikesh - Deoriatal - Tungnath

I truly explored Rishikesh on my trip to Deoriatal - Tungnath. We were three of us. An early morning Shatabdi dropped us at Haridwar and then we took a connecting train to Rishikesh. The holy city of Rishikesh has become a base for multiple routes and has grown itself multifold without expanding geographically.

View from Beatles Cafe

Bauddhanath Stupa, Kathmandu

• Buddha Stupa is one of the grandest structures in Kathmandu. With a busy marketplace surrounding it and some of the famous eateries nearby, this is a place to be.
• There is no entry fee but the place gets crowded so early morning is the best time to visit.

A Stupa is a Buddhist religious structure that represents the learning and messages of Buddha. It is always white in colour and hemispherical in shape - probably indicating the non-violence doctrine of Buddhism. We visited Buddha Stupa on our way to Bhaktapur Darbar Square and Changunarayan Temple. The three heritage sites can be easily covered over a single day if you start early.

Bauddhanath Stupa, Kathmandu

Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu

• One of the most revered temples in the Indian subcontinent, Pashupatinath Temple and the evening celebration is a must visit in Kathmandu. It takes couple hours in total.
• Evening is the best time to visit so that one covers the famous aarti on the banks of  Bagmati river. Photographs inside the temple are not allowed. 

We had to visit Pashupatinath temple coming from India. As per Indian mythology when Sati died her body parts fell in different parts of Indian subcontinent but the most important part that is her head fell at Pashupatinath which makes this one of the most prominent religious sites around.

Entrance to Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu

Haridwar

• Half day for Haridwar is enough. Move to Rishikesh or Dehradun for night stay.
• Store your luggage at one of the hotel lobbies that offer this service at nominal charges.
• Brahm Kund is shallow and crowded, better take a dip on the other side of Hari ki Pauri.

Although I have been to Haridwar so many times, this was the firs time in conscious memory that we truly explored the holy city. Earlier it was a matter of taking a dip and then moving to either Rishikesh or Dehradun. This time we had the whole day and we decided to cover some major attractions around the city.

Brahm Kund @ Hari ki Pauri, Haridwar

The holy dip at Haridwar is kind of mandatory and an exhilarating experience whatever time of year it is. Our train ticket was for Dehradun but we alighted at Haridwar at 11 in the morning and checked in our luggage at one of the numerous hotels which offer this facility at nominal charges. 

Holy dip at Hari ki Pauri

Hari ki Pauri which is the main ghat of Ganges is few kilometers away from the railway station. We took an e-rickshaw and reached there by 12 noon. In november the Ganges is cold but under the warm sun we took many dips near the Brahm Kund. We were hungry now and settled at one of the famous restaurants adjacent to Hari ki Pauri for lunch.

Udan Khatola to Mansa Devi Temple

Next we took the Udan Khatola (a ropeway) to Mansa Devi temple. The ride throws top view of Haridwar which is very different from the bustling city that you visit. Mansa Devi Complex was crowded and had every kind of restaurant at top as well. We spent an hour here and came back.

Monekys @ Mansa Devi, Haridwar is visible in the background

It was 4PM. We decided to wait for the aarti before moving for Dehradun. We settled at the famous Mohan Puri Wala for tea and snacks. At around 5 the crowd started gathering opposite the main bank. It was a massive crowd. We were late and had to settle at the back. The aarti was not as great as at Dashmesh Ghat Varanasi but we enjoyed it.

Crowd gathered for Ganga Aarti

It was time to head towards Dehradun where our hotel rooms were booked. We picked our luggage and took a rickety bus. Thanks to amazing road between Haridwar and Dehradun, we were at our destination in no time.

Hemkund Sahib

• Hemkund is at a height of 15k ft. Best plan an acclimatisation day at Gangaria and a trip to Valley of Flower before attempting Hemkund.
• Check SpO2 before you start and if it is less than 90, take a Diamox tablet.

We reached Gangaria a day before after a long but enjoyable trek from Govindghat. Gangaria is a small village on the way to Hemkund and acts as a base camp for both Hemkund and Valley of Flower. We were surprised to find there was neither internet nor any kind of signal here. Nobody told us that we are going to be disconnected from the rest of the civilisation for the next 3 days.

En route to Gangaria, base village to Hemkund

Tiger’s Nest

Thimpu - Punakha - Paro - Tiger’s Nest

It was our fifth day in Bhutan but the best was still to come. Evidently the spot was perched some 2000 metres high in the middle of nowhere some ten miles away from the scenic Paro Valley. Paro itself had taken us by surprise. We were expecting an airport city but it was so much more than that. Probably Tiger’s Nest had something to do with it.

Trek @ Tiger's Nest

Sarnath

Trip: Delhi - Lucknow - Varanasi - Sarnath - Delhi

• Best time to visit Sarnath is November-February. The site demands long walks and summers can be sweaty.
• While the main stupa and remains of Ashoka Pillar are significant attractions, the star attraction is the head of Ashoka Pillar preserved in the Archeological Museum next to the excavation site.
• The adjacent Digambar Jain Temple is dedicated as birth place of 11th Jain Tirthankara Shreyanshnath and has beautiful artwork on the walls.

Sarnath treasures some of the most vital symbols of Indian heritage and it was a pleasant surprise to witness them during the few hours we stayed there. Less than half hour from Varanasi and home to one of the largest buddhist establishments in the world, Sarnath is part of history textbooks. The highlight of our trip was the archeological museum which has as good a collection as I have seen across the world.

Stupa @ Sarnath

Varanasi

• Book hotel as close to Dashashwamedh Ghat as possible. Most of the attractions are around this ghat. You can even stay late after the famous aarti to go back to your hotel.
• Try everything that is famous to eat as Varanasi is famous for the eateries. Chat and Lassi are two most tries items here.
• A boat ride to Assi Ghat will help you cover the University end of Varansi in style. The Vishwanath Temple within BHU is as peaceful place as possible.

Varanasi was exactly as everyone had described over the years. Congested gullies, overpopulation, lots of cows all along the majestic river Ganges with chants and mantras in the air and a promise of spiritual upheaval. The holy city draws throngs of foreigners to showcase the heritage of India and from what we saw, they don't return disappointed.

Ganga Aarti @ Dashaswamedh Ghat

Lucknow

• Bada Imambara, Chota Imambada, Roomi Gate and Clock Tower are all located at walking distance from each other. Bada Imambara holds Bhool Bhulaiya which is not to be missed even with the crowd thronging.
• Aminabad is the area to be for food related interests. Tunday Kababi, Prakash Kulfi and Netram Kachori are all close by.
• La Martiniere and Ambedkar Park are good for a stroll. Both offer different legacies - the college is old and the park is latest addition to Lucknow.

Lucknow was shining bright as we alighted from Shatabdi. Our hotel was little far in Gomti Nagar but thanks to readily available taxi for hire, we checked in within next half hour. Plan was to rest for an hour and chalk out the route we need to take to maximize our stay. The Imambadas (Bada & Chota) were definitely in the list and so was the delicacies of Aminabad - Tundey Kababi, Prakash Kulfi and Netram Kachoris to name a few.

Chota Imambara

Manikaran Sahib

• Don't come by car if you can. Park your car wherever you are staying and walk to Manikaran. There are Volvo buses that ferry around here which create massive jams.
• Come prepared for the holy dip in the hot spring water below the Gurudwara. Food served at the gurudwara is tasty and healthy. Dont miss that.
• The scenic view of Manikaran is best visible from high ground. Try to find one. The holy town bisected by a sizeable river is beauty to behold.

We drove and drove and drove and reached Manikaran exactly in 30 hours. This included a comfy stay at a resort near Mandi overnight. Hence we were fresh and full on energy when we hit the holy city. The first glance of Manikaran gives an impression of a bowl with a liquid flowing through it. Surrounded by high hills and dissected by Parvati river, the city automatically brings the spiritual in you to fore.

Manikaran Sahib

Colombo, Sri Lanka

• Stay closer to Galle Green Face if you are staying in Colombo. Other option is a beach resort in Negombo which is an hour away.
• The Fort area which has the old market and railway station, is one of the busiest places in Colombo and also host the famous restaurants. Do visit.
• There are a number of sea facing rooftop restaurants and bar that are a great pastime to spend and evening with friends. Also visit the Laksala shops that are government run souvenir shops.

We returned to Colombo from Sigiriya on a warm afternoon. The drive was pleasant and our hotel was in the middle of the busiest district of Colombo. Hence it was in no time that we were on the road moving towards the famous Gangaramaya Temple. It was one of the three places we had finalized to visit on our short stay in Sri Lankan capital.

Gangaramaya Temple 2

Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

• Start early with balanced breakfast. The uphill climb takes 2 hours including breaks so by the time it is noon you would be climbing down in heat with the most clear view when you were up there.
• Don't miss the frescoes painted on the cavern of western wall of Sigiriya. They are some of the most exquisitely painted frescoes that are still preserved probably due to the cave.
• Enjoy the different views that elevation throws at different levels. Explore the top of Sigirya a little. People tend to just hit the top and come back.  

Sigiriya Lion Rock is not just a tourist attraction. History says it was seat of the most powerful king who ever ruled the island nation. Add to that the buddhist monastery in the caves of the gigantic monolith and a view to behold from the top. The result is an unmatchable structure that may very well have cake-walked into the Unesco World Heritage Site list. While the front view of Sigiriya is intimidating, the trek and the experience is equally exhilarating.

View from middle, Sigiriya Lion Rock

Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka

• Bring couple of umbrellas and your passport. Foreign tourists get a healthy discount on a pricey entry fee to this city of ruins.
• You will need a dedicated vehicle for a full day (or two if you are of an archeologistic bend of mind) to nail this one. It is so huge.
• Sleeping Buddha is the star attraction although for me the Pabalu Vehera was the one appreciated the most. We found a spot here where our voice was echoing in open.

The ruins of Polonnaruwa are famous. The fact that an entire city dedicated to the worship of Lord Buddha in Sri Lanka was astonishing for us coming from India. It was this curiosity and the fame that drew us to the ruined city on the very first day of our stay in the central province. The one hour drive from Sigiriya was pleasant and scenic. We came across a massive Buddha statue beside a lake on the way which set the tone for the city.

Parakramaabahu Palace Complex, Polonnaruwa

Kyoto

• Kyoto is huge. Plan ahead on what are the top sites you want to visit. Top three in my list were Kiyomizu-dera, Kinkaku-ji & Fushimi Inari-Taisha.
• Expect a lot of walk. Even if you reach the gates of one of the attractions, the walk inside will be tiring but worth it.
• Take Kyoto Day Pass which includes transport and entry to some of the main shrines. For food, the restaurants near the river are best.

Kyoto is beautiful. At the heart of Japan, nestled with temples, spotted with shrines and bifurcated by a river, the city is duly called the spiritual capital of Japan. We reached Kyoto through a super fast train from Osaka early morning and immediately started moving towards the Kinkaku-ji Temple. It is one of the showstoppers among the famous temples of Kyoto. Known for the gold-leaf structure and located at the centre of a placid lake, the temple was indeed teeming with selfie lovers as we arrived.

Kinkaku-ji Temple

Toshogu Shrine, Nikko

• Use JR Pass to reach Nikko for free. There is a Nikko Line which is faster but costs a lot. Take bus from the station to reach since the shrine is uphill. You can come back down walking.
• The first three gates are the highlight of Toshogu Shrine including the five-storied pagoda, the Yomeimon and the three monkey gate.
• A staircase takes you to all the way up where emperor's shrine is built. The chill air and dense forest around this place gives it a cool aura.

Toshogu Shrine, deep in the hinterlands of Japan, was a perfect beginning of our first trip abroad in seven years. A spiritual centre in a natural habitat and rich with cultural heritage to be listed among the UNESCO World Heritage sites, the shrine near Nikko is a landmark in northern Japan. We started early and thanks to our JR Pass, we reach Nikko without much fuss in no time. A bus would take us to Toshogu from the train station.

Toshugu Shrine, Nikko

Devprayag

• Devprayag is a half day trip from Rishikesh although to be fair, it needs a full day to appreciate the drive and the point. 
• Roads are in perfect condition and well managed. There are very few good restaurants and no petrol pump before Devprayag so plan accordingly. 
• The river Ganges flow to your right all the way to Devprayag which throws multiple viewpoints to saviour. Take a break now and then and appreciate the work of mother nature on these hills.

Devprayag is one of those gems that are not hidden but surrounded by bigger gems and hence ignored. In itself it is worthy of a day trip as we figured while standing at the merging point of two distinctly coloured rivers. The holy incantations and energetic crowd only help create a captivating zone around this point which is in a shape of cake slice.

View of Devprayag from top

Namchi

Gangtok - Tsomgo - Namchi - Darjeeling

• Take a cab to cover Samdruptse and Char Dham. They are in opposite directions so it will take couple hours each to cover them. We paid 10$ for this.

• Stay in Namchi although its a small city. A better plan is to move to Darjeeling or Gangtok and spend the evening there. Both are three hours away from Namchi.

• Start early if you are not staying at Namchi. Late in the evening the availability of transport options to move out of the city simply dry up.

Namchi came up on tripadvisor as one of the top five destinations within Sikkim. It was roughly on our way from Gangtok to Darjeeling so we went for it. How wrong we were. Not that Namchi disappointed us, but the road from Namchi to Darjeeling is so much in tatters that we were jittery all the way.

Shiva Statue, Namchi

Patna Sahib

• The road from Patna to Patna Sahib is congested and busy with limited parking facility. Start early or take a train to Patna City and from there take an auto-rickshaw.
• A walk to holy Ganges through Kangan Ghat is a good idea but takes some time as the river has receded further.
• Visit Agam Kuan and Kumharar en route, famous for events related to Emperor Ashoka who used to run his vast empire from Patliputra.

It may sound strange that I was born and brought up in Patna and yet I never visited Patna Sahib before. The birth place of the Tenth Sikh Guru Govind Singh is something I was not keen to keep out of my blog for long. Hence the visit this winter was a relief.

Inside Patna Sahib

Mathura

Agra - Fatehpur Sikri - Bharatpur - Mathura - Vrindavan

Mathura was calm and bustling at the same time, as expected. The birthplace of Lord Krishna is one of the oldest cities and hence narrow lanes were crowded when we hit the city on a Monday. We parked our car near Holi Gate and entered the realm. Our first destination was Dwarkadheesh Temple. It is on the bank of river Yamuna and draws hundreds of worshippers every morning. We sat there for some time and admired the old structure.

Dwarkadheesh Temple, Mathura